A couple of weeks ago, we took a little trip to Dubrovnik. I’d been fascinated by the place for a while and as Jet2 have started flying there from Leeds Bradford for a very reasonable price, it seemed silly not to go there.
We rented an apartment just out of the town which was really convenient for both the beach and Old Town (the main bit) whilst being a little quieter and more relaxed than the main tourist area. We mixed up our days walking around the walls of the Old Town (and snapping pictures of the real “King’s Landing” from Game of Thrones), getting through a good few books on my Kindle and swimming in the crystal clear sea.
When I think of Eastern Block countries I thought we’d be eating really cheap meals out, however we soon discovered this wasn’t the case and we got ripped off for the first meal we ate. I think this is due to the fact that Dubrovnik is very much a tourist destination, whereas when we visited New York last year it’s very easy to eat out somewhere off the beaten track and the locals go.
The great thing is though that there is plenty of Mediterranean influence, mostly Italian so expect to find plenty of gelato, pasta, pizza and the local alternative to Palma ham: Dalmatian ham. No no, not from a canine, the Dalmatian coast! The latter, when bought in the supermarket is very reasonably priced and we ate it in sandwiches every day!
Good restaurants in Dubrovnik were sought out via TripAdvisor so I’m going to highlight our three favourites from our time there…
So called due to the “unique” water feature outside, Lady Pipi involves a hike to the top of one of the streets in the Old Town. You’ll probably have to queue too (you can’t book) but it’s well worth it if you’re a hardcore carnivore like me. If it rains, the place will be closed because you eat outside under an expanse of grapevines. It’s incredibly beautiful and in some of the tables upstairs you’ll get an incredible view of the city.
The mixed grill for two was more than we could manage but that didn’t stop me having a good go. There was chicken, beef, beautifully spiced lamb koftas and smoked sausages grilled on a traditional brick kiln which kept the meat juicy and delicious. The meat was also accompanied by a beautiful red pepper chunky dip which complemented the meats wonderfully. Paprika is an essential Croatian ingredient which you’ll soon discover once you come here! There’s also the requisite portion of chips if the meat isn’t enough for you.
They also had a very appetising seafood platter if you’re not that into meat.
The meal is quite reasonably priced – we paid just over £30 but we didn’t drink any alcohol and only had mains.
Yes, we thought it was a strange name for Bosnian restaurant too. Do not be confused, you won’t be able to get a methi gosht here. But you will get beautifully spiced authentic Bosnian food at this bustling little hub, which you can find in the back streets of Old Town. You can book here and I’d advise this – we had to wait a while and then we only got to eat inside but they have a lovely outdoor terrace.
My lamb skewers were fabulous and filling although the portion looks small. The meals were accompanied by jacket potatoes with a local cream cheese which I thought was a particular highlight. Mr LTT had koftas with flatbread although I didn’t manage to get a photo as he gobbled them up straight away. Nonetheless, that’s a sure sign that he enjoyed them.
We also ate the baklava which was generously nutty – an excellent pastry to nut ratio and the honey (I presume local) was very distinctive. Baklava is one of my favourite desserts although I much prefer the kataifi kind of baklava.
The meal was just over £40 and that included a glass or two of wine, two mains and a dessert.
We booked this place although we needn’t have bothered for 7pm – a lot of people like to eat later in Dubrovnik when it is cooler. This was by far the best meal we ate in a Dubrovnik restaurant. Next door you’ll find their pizzeria, Oliva, which we ate lunch at a couple of days before and I would fully endorse too. If you’re looking for a meal that’s a bit more special, then Zuzori is the place.
I started off with the seared tuna, accompanied by a beautiful rich and piquant tapenade, quails egg and pea shoots dressed with a little lemon peel. I’ve never eaten tuna before (the tinned stuff looks and smells like cat food to me) so I was very surprised with both the taste and the texture – if I’d have tried it blindfolded I’d have suspected it was pork due to its meatiness and lack of fishy flavour – definitely a positive in my book. It was a beautiful dish both in taste and presentation.
For the main I ordered a chicken and seaweed burger with a confit chicken leg. It came with a pasta (almost like a cross between quinoa and pearl barley) with a beautiful pomodoro sauce and slices of cheese thick enough to stand up in the dish. The seaweed added a natural saltiness to the burger that was thoroughly enjoyable. But I wasn’t too sure about the confit as it just felt to greasy without any crispy skin to enjoy.
Finally, although pretty full, I always believe there’s room from dessert. So I ordered the chocolate fondant. It was, as expected, cooked perfectly. Plenty of sauciness and a decadent cocoa flavour. The fondant came with strawberries and toasted nuts to add some textural variety. It’s probably the best chocolate fondant I’ve ever eaten!
I didn’t take a pic of Mr LTT’s meal but he’ll report it was also very good. For dessert he had a beautiful watermelon granita which they served differently to take account of the fact he can’t have any dairy.
The meal with two starters, mains and desserts plus a bottle of prosecco came to just under £80.